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![]() | That the child/woman had reached womanhood or a stage in her life where she was ready to marry or more importantly, bear children. |
![]() | She now commanded certain speaking rights having naturally acquired a value of participation in her whānau and hapū. |
Note that it is the placement around the mouth that gives indication of her "speaking rights."
Moko on other parts of the body were also relative to their placement, meaning that the full leg and buttock Moko, known commonly as "Puhoro" and/or "Taurapa", had messages relative to transport and movement. Take a look at their names:
![]() | Puhoro = Quick, fast to move or abundant speed. It is also the name for a scroll pattern adorning the rafers of a house and the bow of a canoe. In addition to this the origin of the design comes from the pattern that both, canoe paddles working through water leaves, as well as the wake pattern left by the canoe as it travels. So in a sense, there is a puhoro at the front, down the sides and at the back. |
![]() | Taurapa = The stern post of a canoe. If you see some definite links between both names and their respective explanations, it is no coincidence! It was made and thought of, that way. |
Moko on the arms, known as "Tuhonohono" and "Tatahau" contained message relative to occupational activity. Tatahau have oral referals as having common ties with the puhoro pattern, so also has a relationship through the canoe history's and activities.
Tattoo enthusiasts will be familiar with the Samoan tattooing tool, the "auau." This tool is made from pig tusk and tortoise shell. The chisel end is serrated which when tapped pricks the skin carrying pigment into it.
The traditional Māori, pre-european, tattooing chisel, or "uhi" was similar but rather than pig tusks was made from either greenstone or various animal bones. The preferable bone material being from the albatross. Traditional Māori discovered that the albatross bone had a porous property which meant that it absorbed pigment, enabling the artist to work a longer line. Most tattooists, even today, have the same common desire to find a method by which they can achieve a longer line without having to re-load with pigment.
Some uhi were serrated and because of this were used primarily to carry pigment into the initial wound. These were the second chisels used in the process. However some of the finer uhi were straight edged, much like a "knife." This chisel was the first used in the Ta Moko application process that caused the deep grooves as if the skin had been gouged like wood.
Most uhi chisels, had a male dove-tail style end which was an insert into the end of a 10"-12" handle. They often had a hole drilled into it which was used for lashing so the chisel would be held firmly within the handle.
Once bound into place the chisel was dipped into pigment and with a second mallet type stick was tapped into the skin carrying with it the pigment.
Pigment was made from various vegetation like Kauri Gum or Kapara and Mutara, a caterpillar which mutates into a vegetable found on the floor of most native forests. As well as vegetable based pigments there was also a pigment made from dog faeces.
As normal all natural materials were turned to carbon by way of firing, ground to a fine dust then mixed with a carrying agent which was normally water to a fine fluid.
It is not so surprising that people with any interest in bodyart hold a fascination with Moko. "Pakeha" (Non- Māori), in particular, have been fascinated in Moko and "tatau" since they first ventured into the wide open expanse of Te-Moana-nui-a-Kiwa, or the Pacific Ocean. Since those early journeys of the white man, of the Pakeha, they have held a desire to wear and know the beauty and mystery of Moko. So, their interest in Moko didn't just develop since the much publicised Moko of international pop star Robbie Williams (see above). No - that interest has been around since the mid 1700's.
Now, since the recent emergence of the modern Moko renaissance, since the Robbie Williams arm, many Pakeha have clearly shown that their interest, their fascination and desire has not gone away. In fact more and more, the Māori websites and Māori topic Message Boards are being bombarded with tides of enquiries and requests regarding Moko information. In summary, the most common, the most underlying question amongst the many has to be, "can I, as a Pakeha, get a Moko?"
For many modern Pakeha, especially those resident in New Zealand, the overwhelming Māori response to that question has been - NO!!! Yet there are positive and negative arguments for and against that response which surprisingly exists equally on both the Pakeha and Māori sides of the debate.
To get a fairer picture of the situation lets first take a step back, consider the following statement in the section about Moko Messages, above: "... Moko contains ancestral/tribal messages that pertain to the wearer. These messages narrate a wearer's family, sub-tribal and tribal affiliations and their placing within these social structures ".
Yet, as already explained, Pakeha evidently wore Moko! In fact they didn't just wear armbands or small things, they wore full body and facial Moko. Why then, considering all this recorded evidence, is there still an overwhelmingly negative response, from Māori, when Pakeha enquire if they can wear Moko? Consider this:
![]() | Māori are weary of the possibility that some other unassociated person could be wearing what is through birthrights, not theirs to wear. Additionally, no individual wants to be threatened by some complete stranger purely because, unbeknownst to them, they are wearing someone else's markings. That same possibility exists for Pakeha, desirous to wear Moko. Especially with them not having any genealogical or affiliate ties to either the owners or the symbols. |
![]() | On a similar note, Māori will generally question wearers of whether they are aware of the symbolic knowledge pertaining to their Moko. There is generally doubt as to whether this knowledge exists within the wearer so it is likely that this doubt would increase with regard to Pakeha wearers. |
![]() | Another similar note and a very sensitive point is, Māori in general feel that Pakeha have already exploited too much of Māori symbols and indigenous rights. They see too much of this exploitation, for even now as you read, Māori intellectual property is being exploited. So because Māori are very clear that the demise and exploitation starts from Pakeha culture they are obviously very protective of what is left. |
Yet as has already been stated, there is much for and against these reasons for pakeha not wearing moko.
"The Moko is by no means a fashion accessory."
Pouroto Ngaropo.
"You should be happy to have a tribute to your country and your
people"
spokesperson for fashion designer Thierry Mugler.
From Once Were Warriors to once was in a boy band:
![]() | Robbie Williams has recently had a Māori design tattooed on his arm; |
![]() | Hans Neleman’s photo-essay Moko – Māori Tattoo, documenting ta moko has been shown at the Holland Festival, received glowing reviews in graphic design-bible Graphis, and been spotlighted at "bookshop to the stars" Book Soup on Sunset Boulevard; |
![]() | soccer demi-god Eric Cantona appeared on the cover of British style mag GQ face-painted with a moko; |
![]() | Designer Thierry Mugler used masks inspired by moko to launch his spring/summer collection; |
![]() | an ad for Poloroid cameras features an archetypal boyfriend-your-parents-were- afraid-of adorned with an imitation moko; |
![]() | explored in National Geographic; |
![]() | Discovery Channel features moko in its 'Human Canvas' special; |
![]() | Paco Rabanne's Spring 1998 collection featured two models wearing metal outfits echoing the stylised moko of the film Once Were Warriors; |
![]() | you might want to add the Adidas All Black haka commercial winning ad of the year in Italy; |
![]() | the Spice Girls’ ill-advised attempt at performing a haka; and |
![]() | The Washington Post's and USA Today’s highlighting of the Māori Culture website in their recent web highlights section. |
What this survey of the impact of ta moko and Māori culture on world media demonstrates is that Māori designs are hot; and that Māori culture is achieving strong currency beyond the shores of Aotearoa. For moko to be classified as ‘fashionable’ or ‘hot’ raises difficult and complex questions concerning racial politics, diplomacy, emotions and export. It concerns globalisation, postcolonialism, the history, and the future of an edge society.
The liberal view, a sort of a post-modern global village aesthetic, sees the exposure, when done sensitively, as positive - promoting a specifically Māori/New Zealand cultural and economic edge onto the world stage. Taking the Māori to the world. Māori traditionalists, on the other hand, concerned about ownership of intellectual property, are insulted at having their iconography plundered, especially topped off with lavish plummed headresses and incongruous haute couture in a show of unwearable catwalk silliness.
Former Te Tai Hauauru MP Tukoroirangi Morgan (ironically no stranger to high-fashion consumption himself) took offence at the inspiration French fashion designers have found in moko "The French are just rude and ignorant and they come as no surprise given the history of French and Polynesian people", he said, linking nuclear tests with "treading on our traditional ta moko". A spokesman for Thierry Mugler said the designer thinks Māori "should be happy to have a tribute to your country and your people". Victoria University Māori studies head Ngahuia Te Awekotuku, explains it as an offshoot of a mix and match consumer culture, postulating that bored people in the northern hemisphere were increasingly turning to indigenous symbols and cultural property to enhance their lives. "By taking our arts they claim to celebrate our genius. I assume we are supposed to feel flattered". Claiming that the appropriation of the designs displayed insensitivity and lack of understanding of Māori culture and the moko's significance, Tangata Records head and Māori MP, Willie Jackson: "Who is this dude Rabanne? I'm just getting tired of it. People with no understanding using bits of our culture as it suits them without having any knowledge of us".
However current Maori MP John Tamihere says the idea of European designers taking Maori culture to the world stage was wonderful and "not an insensitive act at all". In his maiden speech to parliament Tamihere urged Māori and New Zealand to take advantage of a cluttered global village and the knowledge revolution to stake our point of difference and assert the product marketing and branding strength of Māori culture. Tamihere locates Māori culture as an integral part of edge identity, asserting that Pacific design, definition and points of differentiation will ensure that Kiwi "... goods, services and products are highly priced, niche marketed, value added and highly sought after … this is all about releasing potential and we must acknowledge that the world-wide indigenous shares are sky rocketing. Take advantage of this as a nation." This is a vision with resonance, there is nothing like the diverse variety of colour, tradition, and sheer life of a Pacific edge New Zealand to build on the fleeting, but binding and intense pride evoked by the All Blacks' Haka.
There are instances of appropriation where edges are blurred: Robbie Williams’ tattoo was done by a Māori artist, Te Rangitu Netana; the All Blacks' Haka, in the adidas commercial (see above) is a performance that briefly infuses a nation with a bi-cultural buzz. Maybe Eric Cantona can be forgiven because he is … well, Eric Cantona, even if Eva Rickard didn’t feel she had earned the mana (respect and authority) to wear the genuine article until a year before her death. But other examples, such as the Spice Girls naïve performance of the Haka are more obviously insulting to Māori.
The current global profile surrounding ta moko is a by-product of a Māori cultural renaissance in general, embracing the arts, land rights and indigenous spirituality. Since the 1980s, the ancient art of ta moko, almost lost as Pakeha missionaries and colonial governments frowned upon the practice, has being undergoing a rebirth, using modern machines as well as the bone chisel. Today, preserved through oral history, historical research, the paintings of European artists such as Lindauer and Charles Goldie, the practice lives in its various forms on hundreds of people, men and women of all ages and walks of life, from corporates to high-school kids to grandmothers. For most it is a way of "demanding identity" and connecting them to tribal affiliations and family lines. A cultural and political statement: a way of wearing culture on your face in the same way as a members of different tribes wear a kilt or a hemp suit on their body.
Pouroto Ngaropo explains his moko:
"Not everyone can wear one. I had to get permission from the elders in my clan. And I prayed to my ancestral spirits to grant me the strength to wear a Moko. Every moko is unique to the wearer. In my case every line tells a story. My moko reflects 480 years of my ancestral line. The four lines drawn from my nose symbolise the four canoes that came to Aotearoa. The two circles on the sides depict my father's and mother's family histories. The lines connect me with my clans, tribal dwellings, canoes and tribes, to the knowledge of nature and to the eternal significance of our culture."
The use of the designs raise questions of intellectual property and, as Tamihere is right to highlight, control over profit from the property. Perhaps an example of how the issues of ta moko can be handled in a sensitive manner is respected New York-based Dutch photographer Hans Neleman's photo-essay, Moko - Māori Tattoo. The book has received widespread exhibition and acclaim, including the Image Bank Award For Visual Excellence, and the project was internationally sponsored by Eastman Kodak; Duggal Labs, Hasselblad, Sinar, and Bron Elektronik AG in Switzerland, as well as a considerable amount of Neleman’s own resource. Neleman photographed 60 Māori with full-face moko, divided into three sections, gang-related tattoo, traditional ta moko, and the rastafarian interpretation of ta moko. The book recieved international attention - Design journal Graphis : "The book’s 72 portraits form a compelling, haunting, vulnerable, frightened, beautiful, defiant mix."
"I wanted to take pictures of proud people," says Neleman. "It was a conscious decision not to make trite images, not to create images that could in any way hurt them." Neleman had been intrigued by Inia Taylor's stylised facial tattoos in the film Once Were Warriors and after being invited to New Zealand to lecture, decided to try to photograph ta moko. After two years of research in close consultation with Pita Turei, and Tame Iti, among others, and through initial resistance, huis (meetings) and other difficulties, including travelling for two days to find one subject, he completed the project in 1999.
Taylor explains a Māori point of view:
"Westerners come along with this attitude: ‘why don’t you want to show this to us? We can make a beautiful book!’ And we’re sitting back thinking: whoopdee-f**king-do, we don’t want to sit on anybody’s coffee table! We want to keep our culture to ourselves".
The book was dedicated to the repatriation (return to its home country) of mokomokai (the severed tattooed heads kept in museums such as New York’s Museum of Natural History) and Neleman decided that all profits from the book would be donated to benefit Māori ta moko.
"Ta moko exposes more than the revival of a tradition- it reveals the beauty of Māori past and the promise of Māori future."
Certainly, for whatever motivation, commercial or curious, exotic or empathetic, the world is interested in ta moko. Its profile raises complex cultural issues, about ta moko and the wider place of Māori culture ‘on the edge’. As Neleman demonstrates there are ways to negotiate these issues sensitively (though even Moko - Māori Tattoo has left a mixed aftertaste). As John Tamihere points out Māori culture constitutes a distinctive part of the New Zealand ‘edge’ identity. Tamihere takes the stance that it is the challenge of the Māori to:
"grab the tiller and fashion the good ship New Zealand and ride as we know our gene pool can do through the vagaries of the uncharted, unmapped and unknown global impacts. Let the good ship New Zealand be the ship that embraces change, that tolerates diversity, that defeats adversity."
Or instead Māori could agree with Inia Taylor, asserting their cultural privacy. What the leaking, taking, giving of the ta moko on the world stage signifies is an interest in an important part of edge culture. How the dialogue between the edge and centre is negotiated and the questions it evokes are important ones. Whether etched in place as symbol of mana or ephemerally painted on a model’s face on a catwalk, what becomes of the kaupapa/meaning of the moko is an edge challenge:
"No one has a monopoly on our unending story of nationhood;
no one has
the manual for our nationhood."
John Tamihere.
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This page last updated 06/07/2003 02:11:44 AM
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